Monday Matt and I went to our favorite surf spot in the San Juans with our friend Collin. It was a birthday surf session as Sunday the 4th of May was my 30th!
The race was big with a perfect westerly swell creating green and breaking waves, mostly around 3 feet.
As the current strengthened the race was intimidating at times. The waves came from all
angles, slapping me in the face and shooting me out in different directions. I would be happily surfing and suddenly find myself blasting into the eddy.
A few times I sat out ahead of the race, letting my boat slip back into the waves and was struck by the beauty of our home and the privilege of playing in our dynamic waters.
I also thought about fear. In a place where the sound of the water and the energy of the waves evoke fear, sitting, watching and breathing centers me. Then I can recognize if there is a real danger present or just a lot of moving water which gets my adrenalin up.
As we embark on our trip, fear of the unknown surfaces.
In Sanskrit, the sacred language in which the Yoga Sutras were written, Abhinidvesa is the word for fear. Fear clouds our perception and we fail to see reality. Even the wisest person suffers from fear because it is instinctual- fear of death. The practice of Yoga helps to overcome all types of fear, through techniques for relaxing the body, controlling the breath and quieting the mind, perception clears.
07 May 2008
Surfing in the San Juans
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I began paddling in the waters of Cook Inlet, working as a guide in Kachemak Bay. Since then, my husband Matt and I have moved to Orcas Island Washington and work with Body Boat Blade. We are passionate about paddling in dynamic waters and living adventurous lives. The Kenai is so diverse and wild, it’s a place I love to know exists on this planet.
1 comment:
Hi Matt and Djuna,
Fun to read about your surf session.
Wish you all the best on your journey.
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